What it is and why it is everywhere here
Hardboard siding, frequently called masonite after one of its manufacturers, is wood fiber compressed with resin and a binder into boards. Through the 1970s and 80s it was cheap, consistent and easy to install, which is why so much of Arvada, Westminster and Northglenn is wearing it.
Installed well and kept sealed, it performs adequately for decades. The problem is that it was frequently not installed well, and almost nobody keeps it sealed.
The failure is always water, and usually at an edge
Hardboard is absorbent. The factory seals the faces, but every board gets cut on site, and those cut ends are raw fiber. If the installer did not prime them, which was common, water has a direct path into the board.
Once water is in, the fiber swells. Swelling breaks the bond between fiber and resin. The board goes soft, the surface delaminates, and the paint on top cracks in a pattern that follows the swelling rather than the wood grain.
Where to look on your own house
- The bottom course. Closest to grade, splash and snow. This is where it starts nine times out of ten.
- Under windows. Water runs off the sill and hits the board directly beneath.
- Butt joints between boards. If the caulk failed, the exposed ends are drinking.
- Behind downspouts and at splash zones. Concentrated water, repeated.
- Anywhere a sprinkler reaches. This one is on us as homeowners, and it is the easiest to fix.
Press the suspect area with your thumb. Sound hardboard is firm. Failing hardboard gives slightly and may feel spongy. If your thumb leaves a dent, that board is past saving.
Why painting over it does nothing
This is the part that costs people money, so it is worth being blunt.
A swollen, delaminating board has lost its structural integrity. Paint is a coating a few thousandths of an inch thick. It cannot restore a board, it cannot stop the swelling, and because it is a moisture barrier on the outside face, it can trap water that is already inside.
What happens next is predictable. The house looks fine for a season, maybe two. Then the same boards crack and lift in the same places, and the homeowner concludes the painter used bad paint. The paint was probably fine. The substrate was already finished.
What proper repair involves
- Identify every failed section. Not just the obvious ones. A careful walk-around with a probe finds the soft spots that are not yet visible.
- Cut out and replace. Failed boards come off and new material goes in. Matching profile matters if you want it invisible.
- Seal every cut end. Including on the new boards, and including the ones the original crew skipped. This is the step that prevents a repeat.
- Address the water source. Grade, gutters, downspout extensions, sprinkler heads. Repairing the board without fixing the water is a two-year solution.
- Prime the repairs. Bare material and patched areas need primer before finish coats.
- Then paint. Now the coating is doing the job it is actually capable of.
The cost conversation, honestly
Repair makes an exterior project more expensive. There is no version of this where it does not. A bid that includes real hardboard repair will come in above one that does not, and the one that does not will look like better value right up until it fails.
What you should insist on is specificity. A bid that says "repair as needed" is not a commitment to anything. Ask how many sections, which elevations, and what the per-board cost is if more is found once work starts. We write it that way because vague language on this item is how surprises happen.
If you are replacing rather than repairing
At some point the arithmetic flips. If a majority of the siding is failing, replacing the whole envelope with fiber cement or another modern product may make more sense than repairing dozens of sections. That is a conversation worth having with a siding contractor rather than a painter, and we will tell you plainly when we think you have crossed that line.